Eurostar, how do we love thee? Let us count the ways. For one, a generous luggage allowance frees your shopping hauls from the tyranny of flying’s one cabin-bag limit; liquids are very much allowed (BYOB, baby); and travelling by train is far more eco-friendly than jetting off – so it’s full-steam (or a more Earth-kind fuel) ahead on the feel-good factor.
If you’re convinced that seeing the Continent by train is just the ticket, leave London behind with our whistle-stop tour of the best Eurostar destinations.
PARIS
Good news, all-gloomed-out Londoners – thanks to the direct line from St Pancras to Gare du Nord, you can leg it to the City of Lights in just over two hours. And standard-class tickets start from just £51 each way (depending on how far in advance you book), so you’ll have some Euros to spare for the Champs-Élysées, too.
DO
Musée de l’Orangerie
See Monet’s Water Lilies as the artist intended – in oval rooms built to the instructions of monsieur Claude himself – at the Musée de l’Orangerie. It’s much more intimate than the city’s headline museums, but the powerhouse collection is full of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist VIPs: Renoir, Cézanne, Picasso and Matisse, to name a few. You’ll need to book ahead, but queues here are much more manageable than those for a certain enigmatically smiling lady in the Louvre.
Promenade Plantée
Paris’s best views often come at a premium, but along the Promenade Plantée – a leafy, loved-by-locals retreat set 10 metres above bustling boulevards – you’ll find swoonsome sights for free. A hand-in-hand stroll along its three-mile stretch reveals rooftop panoramas, romantic arbours and architectural intrigues; and at one point, the walkway seems to slice a modern building in two.
EAT
Robert et Louise
If you’re au fait with Paris travel guides, you’ll know that a shout-out for Robert et Louise is de rigueur. Wood-fired French cuisine, as generous as it is carnivorous, has secured this family-run spot its cult status. Add in the restaurant’s charmingly rustic interiors and reasonable (for the Marais) prices, and it won’t be long before you catch yourself saying: ‘oh, there’s this little place on the Rue Vieille-du-Temple…’
DRINK
Sherry Butt
If you take your spirits seriously, suave Marais hangout the Sherry Butt is a must. Whisky buffs can choose from over a hundred globe-trotting labels – or go the whole hog, hangover be damned, with a full flight. Plus, there’s a curated list of cocktails, each featuring house-made syrups and exotic aromatics, so indecisive drinkers can rely on the ‘close your eyes and point’ method.
STAY
Hôtel Monte Cristo Paris
Right at home among the antique stores, legendary bookshops and leafy squares of the Left Bank, Hôtel Monte Cristo Paris is a feast of literary references and retro flair. Inspired by Dumas’ journeying hero, rooms would make a dapper 19th-century explorer swoon – expect deep velvets, dark-wood panelling and walls hung with bespoke tapestries. Further tropical treasures include a palm-flanked indoor pool, sauna and clubby bar with the largest selection of rums in Paris – santé to that.
LYON
Reach France’s culinary capital by train in as little as five hours – just enough time to work up an appropriate appetite. For the most laidback route, take a Eurostar train from London to Lille then change platforms for the TGV service to Lyon. Eurostar tickets to Lille start from £51 one-way; the TGV leg can start as low as £15 each way.
DO
Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière
The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière is Lyon’s headline act – although it’s hard not to be when you dominate the skyline; looming high above the city, it’s rarely out of eyeshot. But you won’t get sick of it, so follow in two centuries’ worth of pilgrims’ footsteps to the top of ‘praying hill’ to see this display of 19th-century splendour up close and personal – those mural mosaics, Gothic arches and kaleidoscopic domed ceilings are certainly worth the hike.
Track down the traboules
Lyon has 40 secret hidden passageways scattered across the city, criss-crossing courtyards, scaling towers and diving below historic buildings, each marked simply with a lion-head seal. Sound like your kind of quest? Set out along the cobbled lanes of La Croix-Rousse neighbourhood and the old town to seek out each mysterious traboule.
EAT
Bulle
Set in the shadow of the basilica, Bulle’s storied surroundings and breathtaking views might easily be the main event at a lesser restaurant. But Michelin-starred chef Guy Lassausaie’s menu is more than a match, breathing new life into Lyon’s traditional flavours and firmly cementing the city’s rep as a gourmet go-to. A lingering lunch here might feature veal fillet with root vegetables, hazelnut and meadowsweet jus; or turbot stew with citrus and cauliflower mousseline; and – this being France – save room for the selection of local cheeses.
DRINK
Odessa Comptoir
Calling all oenophiles – Odessa Comptoir is where you’ll want to wind up, come evening. The owners travel the country in search of the very best natural vins, which Lyon’s most stylish locals sample over dainty tartines and steak frites – ideal for buffering the effects of that injudicious third glass.
STAY
Villa Maïa
Design fans, Villa Maïa might just steal your hearts. High on Lyon’s historic Fourvière Hill, the hotel counts Roman ruins and the city’s towering Gothic basilica as neighbours. But Jean-Michel Wilmotte’s architecture holds its own, as do interiors by Jacques Grange, style guru to Saint Laurent and Lagerfeld. Plus, there’s a manicured garden, spa and grand indoor pool; and – another name-drop incoming – superstar chef Christian Têtedoie helms a trio of restaurants, including one with a Michelin nod.
AMSTERDAM
The journey from London St Pancras International to Amsterdam Centraal clocks in at around four hours – ample time to brush up on the difference between a coffee shop and a bruin café (the Netherlands’ cosy wood-panelled counterpart). Tickets start from £74 one-way. Heads up: direct services from Amsterdam to London won’t be running from June 2024 to January 2025. Instead, hop on a Thalys or InterCity train to Brussels Midi/Zuid and ride the Eurostar from there.
DO
Canal tour
This is a mainstay of must-do ‘Dam checklists for a reason – gliding past endless gingerbread townhouses, there’s no better way to get your bearings in the city. But not all canal tours are created equal, and by that we mean some serve decadent cheese boards and Dutch apple cake as you sail. On-board treats aside, narrow down the (frankly overwhelming) options further by preferred route. Many tours take in just the main sights, but opt for a meander through the quieter neighbourhoods for just-as-picturesque photo-ops, plus nuggets of lesser-known local history from the skipper.
Moco Museum
The city’s famous Museum Quarter is an obvious must. But if you fancy striking out beyond the Old Masters (or if the Van Gogh Museum has sold out, which it does frequently) try the Moco Museum. Set in a historic townhouse just off Museumplein, the thoughtfully curated collection includes iconic names like Warhol, Haring and Banksy, but exhibitions regularly swing the spotlight onto up-and-coming artists, too.
EAT
Restaurant de Struisvogel
Cosy and convivial, Restaurant de Struisvogel is what the Dutch word gezellig was coined for. This bijou basement spot, on an atmospheric canalside street corner, is easy to miss; but friendly waiters, flickering candles and a very reasonable French-accented set menu make it a secret worth knowing – so book ahead and duck below street level wearing your smuggest ‘I know something you don’t’ smile.
Albert Cuypmarket
For a street-food feast, stroll the Cuyp. Among peddlers of touristy t-shirts and Van Gogh-print-sporting totes, traditional Dutch treats and delicacies from around the world are prepared at rows of inviting stalls. Clear a morning and give yourself carte blanche to try everything – the resulting brunch might consist of Filipino spring rolls and crispy kibbeling (fried fish), followed up by fluffy poffertjes and a fresh stroopwafel the size of your face. Or, on a sunny day, pick up picnic supplies and pedal off to find a leafy spot in Vondelpark.
DRINK
Café de Dokter
Drop in for a medicinal dram at Café de Dokter, a traditional bruin café where soft candlelight, antique curiosities and jazz drifting up from the record player in the corner provide a pleasing contrast to Centrum’s busy thrum. Whisky and Limburg beer are the specialties here, but there’s an impressive wine and gin collection, too. It’s snug (in fact, it’s the city’s smallest pub) and seats are limited, so you’ll want to get there early – but once you’ve secured your barstool, don’t be surprised if you stay all night.
STAY
Canal House
Set across several 17th-century merchants’ houses in achingly pretty Jordaan, boutique stay Canal House’s moody lighting, deep hues and decadent textiles are straight from the Dutch Old Masters’ playbook. But this boutique stay’s design sensibilities swing distinctly 21st-century, with contemporary art hanging alongside antique-stuffed cabinets and sultry rooms sporting cool modernist furnishings. Throw in a romantic courtyard garden and a come-hither cocktail list, and you have the makings of a modern masterpiece.
Plus, you’d be hard-pushed to find a better pied-à-terre postcode – all of Amsterdam’s hotspots are a tram ride away, the Nine Streets’ world-beating design stores are nearby and you can set out on some of the city’s most picturesque canalside cycle routes from the front door.
BARCELONA
It might sound daunting, but London to Barcelona by train in a day is doable and – done right – much more leisurely than flying. You’ll ride the Eurostar from St Pancras International to Paris Gare du Nord, then hop on the RER (or hail a taxi) across town to Gare de Lyon – pausing for lunch at Le Train Bleu – before boarding a six- to seven-hour direct TGV train to Barcelona, so you’ll arrive just in time for supper and a Smith-approved night’s sleep. Eurostar fares from London to Paris start from £51 one-way, and the average price for the Paris to Barcelona leg is £69 one-way.
DO
La Boqueria Market
Catalonia’s finest produce has been traded at La Boqueria for more than 800 years, and there’s no sign of the city’s oldest market packing it in any time soon. Stalls, some family-run for generations, are laden with cheeses, fresh fruit, olives, seafood, and kaleidoscopic confections (for some of the best finds, burrow to the back of the market). Arrive with empty bags and stomachs – this is the place for scouting out better-than-a-fridge-magnet souvenirs, with plentiful pintxos pit-stops.
Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau
Sure, first-timers to the city should probably familiarise themselves with La Sagrada Família. But don’t be surprised if, after a visit to Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s art nouveau marvel Recinte Modernista Sant Pau Barcelona, you may find yourself thinking ‘Gaudí, shmaudi’. Forgive us our heresy, architecture buffs, but Montaner’s stained glass, jewel-toned tiles and towering, technicolour domes seriously up the aesthetic stakes.
EAT
Bar Cañete
When in Barça, bet on Bar Cañete. This legendary El Raval restaurant is that rare thing, a recommended-to-death spot that lives up to the hype and is, somehow, still a local favourite. The key to its longevity? Simple – these are the finest, freshest tapas in town.
DRINK
Paradiso
Pass speakeasy-style through a fridge in what seems like a pastrami shop, and you’ll find yourself in Paradiso, a cosy bar where a multi-award-winning team make an art form of mixology and the annual menu reveal is a much-anticipated event. Highlights have included a fiery bourbon, sesame and smoked-milk concoction for two and a negroni curiously inspired by the invention of the wheel – hey, give it a spin. Lofty concepts aside, these cocktails are seriously tasty, and make the lengthy queues for entry well worth it.
Eldiset
A too-cool tapas bar in buzzy El Born, Eldiset is where the in-crowd head after dark for good conversation and even better Catalan wine. The list of local labels might seem a little intimidating, so quiz the super-knowledgeable staff, cave when someone suggests ceviche to share, and settle in for some serious people-watching.
STAY
Wittmore Hotel
A grown-up stay in the heart of the Gothic Quarter, Wittmore Hotel has pulled off a coup – somewhere between the country-house-inspired furnishings and calmingly low light, the hotel captures the rarefied air and respectful hush of a private members’ club, steps from some of the city’s liveliest streets. Dine on refined Catalan cuisine in the leafy courtyard, which feels like a local secret. One which – after a sunny afternoon spent landmark-spotting, cocktail-in-hand, from the edge of the rooftop plunge pool – you’ll be inclined to keep.
BERLIN
The stars have aligned, and they’ve made travelling from London to Berlin by train a doddle. European Sleeper have handily planned their service from Brussels to Berlin around Eurostar’s London schedule. So you can zip from St Pancras International to Brussels Midi/Zuid on Eurostar (from £51 one-way), arriving in time for a leisurely transfer to the Good Night Train, which runs two to three times a week, arriving in Berlin bright and early in around 11 hours. You’ll sleep sounder in a private cabin; fares start from €129 a person for a two-bed, €159 for a one-bed.
DO
Muse on the city’s museums
Spree Island’s five treasure-stuffed museums are spectacular, and highlights include the Bode-Museum’s Renaissance sculptures and the Alte Nationalgalerie’s 19th-century art collection. But contemporary architecture buffs should check out the Bauhaus Archive. The space-age building was designed by movement pioneer Walter Gropius, and exhibitions offer fascinating insights into work by influential figures.
Find treasure at the flea markets
Sundays in Berlin should mean two things – a hangover-banishing brunch, and a restorative rummage through a flea market. Arkonaplatz is a local favourite, Boxhagener Platz is where to pick up books and vinyl, and the cool kids thrift their wardrobe at RAW. Wherever you end up, let the city inspire your shopping list: architecture tomes, an experimental jazz record and some ‘can I get away with this?’ vintage threads.
EAT
Lokal
At Lokal, you’ll find a daily-changing menu of elevated German staples, all sustainably and (hence the name) hyper-locally sourced. Interiors might be soothingly Scandi, but at heart, this buzzy Mitte spot is all Berlin – work by local artists lines the walls, and each rustic table is handmade from salvaged wood by the city’s finest artisans.
Have a kartoffelpuffer feast
Fun to say, even more fun to eat: kartoffelpuffer are crispy potato pancakes, fried till golden and gobbled up with herby cheese, or apple sauce, or anything you fancy, really. They are, in essence, giant hash browns, and we’ll take 12, thanks. A Berlin street-food staple, you’ll find these bad boys all over the city; but word on the street is that Puffer–Imbiss (1–4 Hasenheide) in up-and-coming Neukölln make the best.
DRINK
Bar 3
Brush shoulders with Berlin’s creative crowd at Bar 3, set on a Mitte backstreet (at 20 Weydingerstrasse). Think of this as the buttoned-down little bro of Soho House (which is just down the road), where wine, whisky and traditional Kölsch beer are the specialties. Snag a barstool and settle in for an evening’s eavesdropping, as artsy locals extol the virtues of 35mm film and deconstruct a friend’s exhibition.
STAY
Sir Savigny
Set in a leafy square in upscale Charlottenburg, Sir Savigny cuts a refined figure. Interiors sport art deco touches, the library is stacked with highbrow tomes, and bespoke pieces by a local artist pay homage to the city’s literary greats. So far, so sophisticated; but a buzzy burger joint and gin-slinging bar keep things from feeling too scholarly. The neighbourhood’s a favourite haunt of Berlin’s culture hounds, so unique boutiques and cafés abound. Plus, the hotel has bikes to rent, so helmet up and get gallery-hopping – sir, yes sir.
BRUGES
Fleeing London for Bruges’ fairy-tale charms is miraculously faff-free, thanks to Eurostar’s Any Belgian Station ticket. Start with a train from St Pancras International to Brussels Midi/Zuid, then zip along on a local service to Bruges. All in all, it’ll take around three-and-a-half hours. Both legs of the journey are included in the ticket price, and fares can start at around £67 one-way.
DO
Scale the Belfry
Work up an appetite for waffles with the 366-step climb to the top of Bruges’ mediaeval Belfry. The panoramic views of the city from the top are worth the work-out any day of the week, but go on a Wednesday and all manner of treats will be waiting at the weekly farmers’ market when you descend.
Rosary Quay
Instagram star, guidebook covergirl: Rosary Quay is Bruges’ most-photographed spot for good reason. Mediaeval houses crowd around the canal, boats putter past and the Belfry teeters above it all; spend a while sitting here (having snapped all the aspects, of course) and soon the city’s nickname ‘Venice of the north’ will seem apt indeed.
EAT
Bistro Bruut
Flemish dining gets mighty fine at Bistro Bruut. Taking a quaint canalside house as his base, chef Bruno Timperman has made a splash with his gutsy, attention-grabbing flavours and imaginative use of ingredients. There’s an emphasis on fresh, ethically sourced and seasonal produce, so the set lunch and dinner menus change daily based on what regional delicacies the kitchen has acquired, but expect plates of Zeebrugge seafood, wild game and foraged fancies, all as dainty as they are daring.
DRINK
Le Trappiste
A pilgrimage to Le Trappiste is a must for fans of a traditional Belgian brew. Set in an atmospheric mediaeval cellar, the bar specialises in beer made by Trappist monks – and those bros have been busy. Tackle the 100-strong selection with a tasting flight, covering local favourites and rarer international finds. For confirmed beer buffs, this place is a no-brainer; but even lay drinkers will love the cosy, candlelit atmosphere.
STAY
Boutique Hotel Sablon
Behind Boutique Hotel Sablon’s 16th-century façade, frills are decidedly out. Instead, pared-back interiors draw focus to pieces by local contemporary artists, and walls are inscribed with the poetry of one-time guest Paul Verlaine. Channel the hotel’s old bohemian set with a jenever-based cocktail, then meander merrily out to the Grote Markt, barely a five-minute stroll away.
(Please note, the quoted prices differ depending on when you book and when you want to travel.)
And, explore more of the Continent with our hotels for city breaks in Europe.
