The rattle of ice cubes accompanies a soundtrack of sultry jazz. It’s aperitif time at Reserva Bar, the jewel-box bar at Porto’s Vinha Boutique Hotel, and just like the décor – a custom tapestry by Portuguese heritage brand Ferreira de Sá covering the ceiling, the blood-red marble counter, banquettes upholstered in teal velvet – the cocktail list isn’t afraid to play with the classics.
Take their twist on a negroni. Crisp, slightly saline and crystal-clear, the vermouth has been swapped for a more patriotic tipple: Novak extra dry white port.
The Glamourouse, meanwhile, is set down in a cloud of cherry-scented smoke. It’s part of the hotel’s new fashion-inspired drinks menu and combines Beluga Noble vodka, a rose, cherry and hibiscus infusion, and late-bottled vintage (LBV) port. Yet another nod to the city’s most famous export.
Port typically conjures up images of ruddy-faced old men swilling glasses by the fireside after dinner. You might have a bottle gathering dust in the cupboard, cracked into only at Christmas alongside a hunk of stilton. But in the city that gave its name to this fortified wine, mixologists and producers are on a mission to shake up the drink’s image.
Sure, porto tonico has already become locals’ go-to sundowner (imagine a less alcoholic, slightly sweeter G&T). But that’s just the tip of the iceberg, says Vinha’s bar manager, Sara Losa.
‘Port’s such a versatile ingredient. Because of the different ages and types of port – from ruby, to tawny to white – you can work with various tastes and aromas. And of course, port-based cocktails help to keep our traditions and roots alive,’ she adds.
This heritage can be traced back to the 17th century, when British merchants realised that adding small amounts of grape brandy to wine meant it better survived the long journey home. The sweet-toothed English public lapped up the product. Barrels were borne on barges from the Douro Valley’s vineyards to the riverfront cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia.
Today, tourists flock to this strip of port lodges to sample flights of tawny and ruby ports. Cross the Luís I bridge to downtown Porto, however, and a new chapter of port’s story is underway. Bathed in red neon light, Rebel Port Club spills into the backyard of concept store LOT [Labels of Tomorrow].
On the menu: a crisp, refreshing White Collins (Cockburn’s White Heights, apple and ginger) or sweet-and-sour Rosita (Graham’s Blend No12, grapefruit lime, rosemary and salt). The pop-up was launched by Symington Family Estates, owner of iconic port brands such as Graham’s, Dow’s and Cockburn’s, as a way to ‘show people there are no limits or strict rules around how and where it can be enjoyed,’ says marketing manager Charlotte Symington. ‘It’s not just after dinner with cheese.’
How about port with your pizza, for instance? Neapolitan-born, Portugal-based Antonio Mezzero is so passionate about this pairing that he launched international competition World Stars Pizza & Port Wine, which sees global chefs teamed up with renowned port producers. Head to his raved-about pizzeria Mezzero in the seaside suburb of Matosinhos to sample some combos for yourself.
If all this whets your appetite for a deeper dive into the world of fortified wine, it’s now possible to book a private tasting with the oldest port wine-making family, Van Zellers & Co.
14th-generation owners Cristiano and Joana host these bespoke lunches either at the family home in Porto or a 17th century farmhouse deep in the Douro Valley, pouring out tips (did you know most port is best served slightly chilled?) alongside some staggeringly old and rare vintages. Their casks hold wines dating back to 1860, the year Abraham Lincoln was elected.
Not that being in the business of ageing means standing still. Far from it. Some old-guard producers, such as Sandeman and Crofts, are branching out into rosé ports or canned port tonics. In Van Zellers & Co’s case, the Portuguese coast has inspired their latest venture: the world’s first ocean-aged port.
Bottles of their 2020 vintage are currently submerged 12m beneath the Atlantic, where temperature, light and pressure levels accelerate the wine’s maturation. They’ll be retrieved this November and sold in packaging designed by eco-vegan footwear brand Zouri Shoes out of ocean plastic debris. Propelled forwards by this next generation of producers and bartending talent, port’s future looks very sweet indeed.
WHERE TO EAT IN PORTO
Don’t be fooled by the unassuming name ‘snacks’ on Cozinha das Flores’ menu; these bitesize morsels are scene-stealers, whether it’s the turnip natas (a savoury, caviar-topped spin of Portugal’s’ beloved custard tart) or indulgent king crab doughnuts. This restaurant is something of a homecoming for Nuno Mendes, he of Chiltern Firehouse fame, as his mother hails from northern Portugal. Childhood nostalgia for the region suffuses the dishes.
The dessert ‘Milk’, for instance, is a delicate, creamy assembly of textures remembered from his grandfather’s dairy farm, while native blue lobster upgrades the traditional seafood wet rice. Equally comforting (and beautiful to behold) is the black marble open kitchen with its wood-fired oven.
Adjoining 12-seater bar Flôr is similarly adept at reimagining classic Portuguese flavours. Case in point: a salt cod-infused gin cocktail. Don’t fear, it’s only the saline essence, not fishy flavour, that’s captured in the tipple, with coriander, amaranth, apple and espelette pepper adding complex fruit and spice notes. The name may be ‘Clichéd’, but this drink – and indeed the entire venue – is full of original flair.
WHERE TO STAY IN PORTO
Living up to its grandiose name, Le Monumental Palace is the Art Deco aristocrat of Porto hotels. Neighbours with City Hall on the main thoroughfare of Avenida dos Aliados, it’s within stumbling distance of the city’s coolest cocktail bars (namely, Flor and Torta).
Jazz Age glamour’s alive and well across the interiors, which don’t shy away from a natty pattern – whether it’s the leopard print clad corridors or the library’s cherry blossom-emblazoned rugs. After all those port tastings, the supremely comfy beds beckon for lengthy lie-ins and breakfast-in-bed.
Or decamp to aforementioned Vinha Boutique Hotel, where an historic rose-hued mansion seamlessly blends with contemporary glass extensions. Unfurling on the banks of the Douro, the hotel’s sprawling gardens and Sisley spa belie how easy it is to reach the city centre – whisked down the Douro in style aboard the complimentary boat shuttle service, no less.
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Estella Shardlow is a freelance travel writer and editor whose work has appeared in The Times, Suitcase, The Telegraph, Food & Travel and more.
