As the nights get longer and the mornings frostier, cities in Europe are once again set to get tipsy on mulled wine and festooned with fairy lights. But, the coolest events in December are those that shake things up like a snow-globe, where stalls sell niche artisanal brands, festivities are carried out in a roguish artists’ commune in Denmark or there’s mischief from prank-loving Icelandic trolls. Starting to feeling advent-urous? Read on for 10 of the best Christmas markets in Europe for 2023 that’ll help you put the ‘oi’ in ‘joy…
BERLIN
GERMANY
We’ll start with the traditional… Germany is a wellspring of famous Christmas markets – they’re the OGs of well-hung wurst, fried potatoes smothered in apple sauce, glühwein and gingerbread hearts frosted with gutturally romantic epithets. Beginners should start at Berlin’s immensely popular, easier-to-say-when-mulled-up Weihnachtsmarkt from the Red Town Hall to St Mary’s Church. This gateway market is a twinkling mini-city, where painters, stonemasons, woodworkers and other artisans peddle trinkets from mini chalets.
Stocking fillers Ice-skating, Santa flying in his sleigh thrice a day, and a 50-metre-high ferris wheel with panoramic views.
When Until 7 January 2024.
Stay Sir Savigny, a stylish, artsy stay in Berlin’s cultural quarter.
FINLAND
ROVANIEMI
If you’ve erred on the naughty side this year and still fancy a last-minute shot at the nice list, a visit to the big fella himself may be warranted. The Santa Claus Village in Finland‘s Arctic Circle is the Las Vegas of Christmas markets – you’ve got to see it to believe it in all its snowy extravagance. Kids will be thrilled about taking a peek around Santa’s post office or exploring the underground amusement park (which was once a nuclear bunker, but is far more festive these days), and there’s plenty of adult-only fun, too. Reset your karmic footing in a classic wooden sauna before counteracting those good intentions with a liberal ladle of warm glögg. And there’s always the possibility of glimpsing the awe-inspiring displays of the Northern Lights.
Stocking fillers Mr Claus himself, of course, plus real-life reindeers, and enough festive flamboyance to make the Grinch weep.
When When not would be a more appropriate question – Santa’s village is open every day of the year.
Stay Cosy-up at the Arctic Treehouse Hotel for a prime slice of polar luxury.
BELGIUM
GHENT
In the shadow of Ghent cathedral’s Gothic buttresses there are pine-scented laneways of little wooden huts demarcating the Belgian city’s Winterfeesten area, one of Europe’s most beautiful Christmas markets. Stalls sell the usual trinkets, but you can find warming snacks and drinks typical to Belgium, too (tartiflette, cartons of frites, super-strength beer). Glow-y goodwill permeates the city: the canals are strung with lights and the slightly vampiric-looking Count’s Castle gets a touch of tinsel. The Chez Babette ski bar offers an inner-city après feel, with a warming fire and DJs after dark.
Stocking fillers See the snow-dusted city from above on Europe’s largest Ferris wheel, ride a bauble on the Christmas-tree-shaped carousel, and get some retro kicks on the 400-square-metre rollerskating rink.
When Until 31 December 2023.
Stay Pillows Grand Hotel Reylof is a Louis XIV-style townhouse with poetic leanings on the outside and a cosy modern hideaway within.
UNITED KINGDOM
MANCHESTER
Manchester has wholeheartedly embraced the tradition of the Christmas market, with more than 225 festive stalls popping up at nine locations throughout the city. The scent of mulling wine (and hot buttered gin) and roasting hog will waft from Piccadilly Gardens (in their winter finery) to King Street to the Corn Exchange, and you can bag presents for all sorts with stalls peddling spiced spirits, handsome headgear, Nepalese woollen jumpers, and other tempting wares.
Each location offers something different, and with pop-up prosecco bars, hot-toddie cabins, beer halls and all manner of food stalls (including Yorkshire-pudding wraps from Porky Pig), you’re guaranteed to be well fed and quite merry.
Stocking fillers A glittering skate rink over Cathedral Gardens, alien sculptures in St Ann’s Square, coconut macaroons hot from the oven on Market Street, and a tipi bar with live music.
When Until 21 December, 2023 (though dates vary by location).
Stay King Street Townhouse, just across from the Town Hall – you can watch the Christmassy chaos below from the on-high bar terrace or spa pool.
LONDON
While everyone’s jumping on Hyde Park Winter Wonderland’s sleigh-wagon, we’re tucking into the trimmings: the smorgasbord of London’s alt-Xmas markets, that is. Say, Salad Days Market’s event at the Mansion in Beckenham Place Park (16 to 17 December 2023). This collab with blogger, author and photographer Liv Purvis will have original artworks, handmade jewellery and vintage homewares.
If you prefer chaos and devilry to comfort and joy, you may prefer the Satanic Flea Market’s Anti-Xmas Fayre at Electrowerkz in Angel (10 December), where potential gifts include taxidermy, spell books and skull-printed things. Or swap horns for a handmade halo at Wick Wonderland (all December weekends before Christmas), which showcases East London creatives, such as Kalicrame’s neon weavings, Sae-Won Le’s bespoke mosaics or Ali Smith’s urban-landscape prints. And monthly design market Crafty Fox will get a festive feel on the 10 December.
Stocking fillers All the fun of a Christmas fair, but way cooler.
When Dates in 2023 vary by location.
Stay The Bull and Last, a haute pub by Hampstead Heath with decadent dining.
DENMARK
COPENHAGEN
Copenhagen’s native son, Hans ‘Christmas’ Andersen, may have penned nihilistic fireside tales about Xmas trees going to seed and an illicit romance between snowman and stove (you ok, Hans?), but the city itself looks like something from a – much cheerier – fairytale. Head to anything-goes artists commune Freetown Christiania for a unique Christmas romp in the style of an Eastern bazaar. The resident artists sell their handicrafts and ladle out potent gløgg.
Stocking fillers Tivoli Gardens amusement park is dressed in its seasonal finery.
When Until 20 December 2023.
Stay Parisian on the outside but hygge on the inside, Coco Hotel in Copenhagen makes for a fashion-forward Danish base.
ICELAND
REYKJAVIK
Christmas traditions in Iceland are typically curious. Instead of Santa there’s the Yule cat, who eats children who don’t dress well for festivities, and tricksters the Yule Lads: mischievous sons of child-eating troll Gryla, who leave children gifts or rotting potatoes depending on their naughty-or-nice ranking. These pranksters pop up throughout the city, as do festive markets. There are stalls at both Hjartatorg and Kvosin in the capital; the Laugardalur Park is lit up like a Christmas, well, valley; Reykjavik Art Museum dives into the country’s unique Christmas lore; and both the towering Oslo Tree and giant Yule Cat sculpture get illumination events.
There’s also an ice rink in downtown Reykjavik; and live music and storytelling in the woods of nature reserve, Heidmork.
Stocking fillers Arbaer open-air museum shows an as-it-was Christmas. Guests can try customary fermented skate, whittle some wood and make traditional leaf bread.
When Dates for 2023 vary by location.
Stay Hole up at cosy Kvosin Hotel downtown.
NETHERLANDS
AMSTERDAM
Amsterdam trips the light fantastic come Christmas (not for any dodgy reasons, mind). The Dam Square has a damn fine Christmas tree strung with lights, and the ceremony for illuminating the city is an extravaganza of circus performers, music and puppetry.
The luminous, avant-garde artworks of the Light Festival are displayed throughout December – no need to be in the dark about the route, just hop in a canal boat or follow the walking-route map.
Stocking fillers Grand theatre Concertgebouw will have rousing choral music.
When The Light Festival runs until 21 January 2024.
Stay Reinvented Dutch masterpiece, Hotel Pulitzer.
ROMANIA
TRANSYLVANIA
For a Noël to tempt Nosferatu himself, Transylvania’s Christmas markets bring the best of Bavaria to Dracula’s homeland. November sees the region make a seamless transition from spooky to seasonal, with snow-topped chalets popping up all over its vampiric stronghold.
Sibiu offers all the flair of a Viennese market with a fraction of the crowd. But it’s Brasov’s market that steals the show, made all the more Christmassy with snow-peaked Carpathian Mountains as a backdrop. Stalls? Never heard of them – Brasov cuts no corners in the boastfully Baroque square of Piata Sfatului, swapping the standard kiosk set-up for full wooden houses each selling traditional Romanian treats, from toy figurines to delicious local delicacies.
Stocking fillers A mountain-encompassed mediaeval marktplatz, meat-feast morsels and craft workshops for kids (don’t worry though, stake-sharpening is strictly adults-only).
When Sibiu market is on until 2 January 2024; Brasov runs until 7 January 2024, with its ice-rink staying open till 5 February.
Stay The rurally Romanian Copsamare Guesthouses, bang in the middle of the Transylvanian triangle.
SCOTLAND
EDINBURGH
Edinburgh’s East Princes Street Gardens Christmas market pulls out all the stops at the foot of the city’s formidable castle. Browse more than 80 stalls, lose yourself in a labyrinth of Christmas trees or get a 360-degree view from atop the 46-metre-high ferris wheel. Warm the cockles with a ladle of boozy, spiced plum cider, or grab yourself a Glayva, a festive variation of the classic wee dram seasoned with spices, tangerine and honey.
Stocking fillers Glistening gothic landscapes sprinkled with an ice rink, and plenty of whiskey warmers.
When East Princes’ Street Gardens Christmas market runs until 2 January 2024.
Stay Settle-in for a stately, tartan turn-out at the Roseate Edinburgh, a 10-minute walk from the city’s festivities.
To wrap up your festive escape, book a boutique city break in Europe.
Additional reporting by Stephanie Gavan
